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February 03, 2012 at 1:41 PM

Cold and windy on Aonach Mor today. With the cold wind from the continent and 30mph winds, windchill is a major issue and clothing needs to be thought out carefully. It is definitely the time for belay mitts and belay duvet’s.
Liam and Phil led Right Twin today with myself in close attendance. Currently it is a well banked out easy II, however, coming through the mush snow-rime cornice in the wind was like having your head in a bucket of slush puppy for two minutes! As I topped out I could not feel my face! Thankfully axe placements were good though.
Its funny on these easier grade II / III’s, particularly high up such as Aonach Mor, which builds large cornices. Often by far the hardest part of the route is the cornice and it is out of all proportion with the grade of the rest of the route. Perhaps we need a new grading system which has a seriousness grade for when the cornice is an awkward monster. Then perhaps on some days some of the routes on Aonach Mor may go at V/2 !!!!

Looking up Left twin with climbers on Hurricane Arete

Liam topping out on Right Twin

 

 

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