Mountain Motion winter conditions and blog

Steep ice climbing with Scotlands finest on the Dubh Loch

Jan 13, 2014

Spent the weekend East with Robin Clothier, and lots of others!! Thanks to Uisdean and Doug for the comfortable accomodation in Ballater. On Saturday Myself, Robin, Iain Small, Simon Richardson, Callum Johnson and the Hawthorns! biked and walked in at an unearthly hour, only to Find Mr Boswell and Mr Robertson had headed in even earlier. We were then caught up with Will and Nick.
We decided to look at the left side of Broad terrace and originally were eying up a line between Lost Oasis and Sword of damocles but Callum and Uisdean beat us to it so we went for lost Oasis.

All credit to Robin who led the second crux pitch up some really steep and variable ice, a fine effort. I had the chance to take some great photo's of Callum as he led the second pitch up the new line next to us.

On the far side of the wall the rest of the guys were all putting up funky new hard lines to the left of The Sting. An incredible amount of hard new routing all being done alongside each other!

The second day was a bit quieter. I was a bit ill and we went for an ascent of the Sting but the ice was plating off the lower crux slabs so we did the easy Barrel Buttress instead for a cruisy day.

The great ice of Lost Oasis and Callum and Uisdeans new route.


Robin heading for the crux pillar


Callum on the thin and steep second pitch of their new route, a great steady lead.


Category: Winter