Mountain Motion winter conditions and blog

A Scottish winter climbing hidden gem on the Douglas Boulder

Dec 16, 2014

Steve and I went in to Ben Nevis to have a look at a route Uisdean and Robin had done on the weekend. They had done something which linked various routes such as North west face route / Militant Chimney / and Down to the wire. We started in the same way and at the top of Militant Chimney (which I think is called Turf Wars in winter?) we meandered straight up for a couple of pitches before slowly trending right to the top. In particular, the pitch up into the chimney, and the chimney pitch is real quality climbing.

This was a great little, well... not so little route and definitely one of the best routes at mid grade (V.6 ish) on the boulder. The climbing is steady and interesting with good hooks and placements where you need them. Also, which is unusual for the boulder, the gear is great with plenty of pro when you need it. All in all a hidden gem which deserves more ascents.

Heading up to the chimney entry pitch.

Scottish winter climbing on the douglas boulder

Looking down the main chimney pitch.


Steve heading off up after the chimney.

Leading off after the militant chimney pitch

Category: Winter