Mountain Motion winter conditions and blog

Sabotorfossen, the best route in Rjukan at the moment??, Probably!

Jan 14, 2015

A fabulous days ice climbing in the upper gorge today. Bob and I were heading for Trapfoss but on the way past, Sabotorfossen looked too much fun. Unlike the snow wade the extra 500m to get to Trapfoss would have been without a track!. So we headed up the big classic instead. Fantastic climbing, varied, interesting, plenty of ice and little snow blanketing it out.

After the initial slab the hidden chimney was a delight with absorbing, technical fairly friendly climbing until underneath the final pitch. This was pretty drippy and chandelierey (is that a word!) but the right side exit was fine, on good ice. All went smoothly part from a crampon coming off on the final pitch. Kept things interesting!!

After the rap down we quickly went up Nedre Svigfoss then back to town for a well earned coffee.

The classic, Sabotorfossen.

Sbortofossen in the upper gorge during an ice climbing course

The entrance pitch to the hidden chimney.

the entrance to the hidden chimney on Sabotorfossen.

In the hidden ice chimney. ps. I'm just loving the new Grivel Tech Machines. So good on the steep stuff.

Ice climbing with the new Tech Machines from Grivel. Excellent.

Looking up the final pitch.

Sabotorfossen final pitch

Looking down from part way up the final pitch, the offending crampon in view!


An icicle and abolokov rap anchor.

Abolokov and icicle belay


Category: Winter