Mountain Motion winter conditions and blog

An ice climber goes mixed climbing on Ben Nevis

Nov 23, 2013

Blair and myself walked up to the Hut to meet Robin this morning. Nice, as then we did not have to carry too much kit in. Now Robin is a good climber, but is a self confessed ice climbing maestro and well known for it, but we took him up some mixed today. Social in the hut and difficult to leave with Iain Small, Tony Stone, Simon and Helen et all sitting around having a cuppa. Eventually we wondered up towards No3 Gully and decided on Archangel on the Ciste. Iain and Tony set off up Arthur, a super impressive line (and probably the third ascent).

Blair ran the first couple of pitches together. I swore up the next pitch to the large ledge and then Blair did some nice climbing to get round the corner and up the V groove. This left me with the exit which I went slightly wrong on I think, gibbering up a blank leaning corner before I finally managed to get right, back onto the route at the next ledge, and finish up the final hanging groove.

Pretty awkward route finding as the route description in the latest guidebook is a bit confusing but hey we got there. So, the first hard mixed climb on the Ben for me this winter. Thanks to Blair for leading with steady precision as always and to Robin for the banter and initiating us in his belay ledge speciality!!! Folk who have climbed with Robin will know what I am talking about !

Blair heading up the first pitch


Blair exiting from the third pitch.


Blair after the V groove high on the buttress.


A mixed climber tops out.


An ice climber tops out.




Category: Winter